New Zealand, at least the south island, is a land of grassy fields, jagged mountains, cascading falls, and vast views. After flying off the Ice mid-February, Dave and I began our two week adventure in Christchurch, the largest city on the south island, the gateway to Antarctica. We had spent a couple of days in Christchurch on our way down to McMurdo, and therefore had very little desire to spend more time in the big city. We were craving green!
But first there were a couple of loose ends we needed to tie up for our travels, a few supplies to buy, and a much-awaited Thai dinner to eat! We were staying at the YMCA once again, along with many other friends from the Ice. We knew our first destination was Wanaka, a small town about 6 hours south of Christchurch. Here comes a cast of characters (all friends from the Ice):
Sky- great guy, cargo handler
Sully- also an awesome guy, cargo handler
Jon-O- cargo handler
Bill- cargo handler, a bit of a lush, definitely a loose thread
Sarah- shuttle driver
Karl- dining attendant, left the Ice early suffering from a broken heart
Severin- friend of Karl's, also a dining attendant
So. We started out planning to hitchhike to Wanaka. The day before we were going to head out of Christchurch, we had been hanging out with Sky. It turned out that he was going to Wanaka too, to visit an old friend. Sully had offered him a ride- he was heading that way as well. So for a few hours we thought we could catch a ride with Sully. But then Sully suddenly had a full car, with Jon-O, Bill and Sarah catching a ride with him as well. So we were back to hitching, which was a bummer because Dave and I were both really excited about traveling with Sky. We went to bed that night, thinking we were going to hitch.
The next morning Dave and I were checking out of the YMCA and ran into Karl, walking in. He looked at our packs and asked us where we were heading. "Hitching to Wanaka!" Whaduyaknow? Karl was going there too! He had bought a car when he returned to New Zealand early, and had been driving all over, climbing, for the past month. He just happened to be stopping through Christchurch to pick up his friend Severin. They were planning to leave in an hour! So of course we accepted the ride and ran off to the travel agency to finish verify our flight tickets from New Zealand to Sydney. Karl told us he would pick us up at the travel agency.
Well, just as we were leaving the travel agency, who walked in the door but Sky! "What are you doing here" we asked. "I'm here to pick you up!" Turns out, Sky decided to travel with us instead of Sully's crew, so he was in our vehicle after all! How lucky!
South Island of New Zealand- the road from Christchurch to Wanaka
So thats a long-winded lucky beginning to our pretty lucky travels through New Zealand. The road to Wanaka was beautiful- changing from flat industrial suburbia to rolling pastures and then dry rocky outcroppings and cool lakes. We made good time as it was pretty late by the time we got on the road.
Lake Pukaki- we stopped on the side of the road to take pictures
When we got to Wanaka Karl and Severin decided to drop Dave, Sky and I off in town and make their way out to their final destination- a campsite out near a climbing wall where they were planning on spending a few days. We were unsure about where we might be staying for the night. There were a couple of hostels, but most of them seemed to be booked. We had camping gear so we thought that would be an easy choice. And Sky knew a guy in town who he had met about 3 years previous, on his last travels through New Zealand post-Ice. So we went up to James's house- just to stop by and feel it out. James, his girlfriend Shell, and their adorable little kids Darcy and Marley were so friendly! We made dinner for them, and spent the entire night just sitting around talking. Of course they insisted that we pitch our tent right in their backyard, which was super easy.
Marley in his backyard- check out the mountains!!!
The next morning, James drove Dave, Sky and I downtown to meet up with the Sully crew. On the way we stopped by an artisan well on the side of the road to fill up our water bottles- the water was deliciously cool and clean- its where James gets all the water his family drinks!
At breakfast, sitting out on the sidewalk at a little cafe, Dave and I ended up convincing Sky and Sully to do the first part of our hike with us- an easy flat route for the first day, following a river. This was perfect! Instead of having to hitch to the trailhead, Sully would be able to drive us. Sarah and Jon-O were going to spend the day lazing about, and Bill wanted to check out the local brewery.
One problem- Bill needed a car to get to the brewery. So he proposed to drive all of us to the trailhead, drop us off, and then pick up Sky and Sully in the evening. This would be fine except that in New Zealand they drive on the wrong side of the road, and Sully's rental agreement only covered him as a driver. So we had Bill drive us out to the trail head as a test run. Good thing too! I think I nearly missed half the amazing scenery while I was white-knuckled in the back seat! Bill had a habit of hugging the center line. The road left town as winding blacktop, passed suburbia-type houses, and ran down into farmland. Soon we were driving on a dirt road, and then a single-lane dirt road. We forded a couple of shallow streams ("ya un fe-yord!" became the cry in the car) and were doing just fine....until...
we crossed a small, low, one-lane bridge (barely a bridge!) which happened to have 6" concrete curbs and a guard rail on either side. For some reason Bill decided now was the time to practice hugging the edge of the road, and BAM!!! he ran into the concrete curb! It tore a huge gash into the sidewall of the front tire. Needless to say, no one was happy, especially Sully.
4 guys changing a tire, learning that when the guidebooks say look out for sandflies, they're serious!
We couldn't have had a more scenic place to have to get out of the car and change the tire!
So after a bit of quibbling, Dave and I convinced everyone else that the best plan of action would be for everyone (including Bill!) to go hiking with us. We were all the way out there already. So we did- and it was fantastic!
On the trail- beautiful grassy flatlands
The first leg of our 4 day hike took us along the banks of the Matukituka River, hemmed in on both sides by jagged beautiful peaks. The hike was the flattest we would see on our four days, taking us through pastures and around cows who looked at us flatly. We heard more cows in the woods at the edges of the mountains. The river popped in and out of view- it looked cold! We had perfect weather- sunny, not too hot- and the bugs seems non-existent.
Dave and I were traveling light- I'm carrying pretty much everything that I'll need for the next 2 weeks in New Zealand
We hiked most of the way to the first hut with the guys and stopped for lunch at a private, locked up hut. We took shelter from the sun in the small covered entryway, and shared cheese, nuts, and chocolate. A fitting end!
The Crew: Dave, Sully, upside-down Sky, Chelsea, Jon-O
From there, we parted ways. Dave and I continued down the trail to the hut of the night, Aspiring Hut. This was the nicest hut we stayed in on the trail. There was also a ranger camped in the same compound. It also happened to be the most expensive! This was a well appointed hut though! A huge common area with a beautiful expanse of windows that opened to the rolling meadows and river below pulled sunlight in across the picnic tables set up in the main area. A handful of people were there when we took our boots off at the door, many cooking dinner over the gas burners installed in the kitchen. We made friends trying to figure out how to light them!
Aspiring Hut- photo taken by ryanja on flickr.com
Dave and I were hot and stinky... and decided to take a quick rinse in the river. Wow was that cold! Straight from the glaciers! We weren't able to stay in very long- more splashing than anything else. We DID however scrub each other down with glacial flour- super fine rock particles ground down by the glaciers and washed suspended into the rivers. It glittered silver on our bodies. Glistening!
Nigel and Chuckanucka both came along for our hike, but they made a friend in Antarctica- James the Bear. James came travel with us from Miss Colletta's 34d grade class in New York. Our job was to help him document his travels, and send photos back to the kids in the school.
That evening we looked over our hike for the next day- over Cascade Saddle. We befriended two Israeli guys who were also hiking the same trail as us- we shared our chocolate with them and they shared their tea with us. We would end up seeing them throughout the next few days...
That night, we slept really well on a double bunk high in the rafters of the hut. Splendid sleep!
the Matukituka Valley that we hiked up....(photo taken from the top of the Cascade Saddle)
next installment- many more photos, the climb up Cascade Saddle....stay tuned...
1 comment:
Looks gorgeous! All that green must have been a welcome sight! I look forward to future installments.
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